Antique Jewellery: Tips for Buyers
If you’re a fan of antique jewels, determining the age and authenticity of an item can be tricky. It is particularly difficult if you are making the purchase sight unseen over the internet, or on good faith of the word of the seller. Megan Austin discusses the intricacies involved when attempting to determine the age and authenticity of a jewel.
If you’re a fan of antique jewels, determining the age and authenticity of an item can be tricky. It is particularly difficult if you are making the purchase sight unseen over the internet, or on good faith of the word of the seller. Megan Austin discusses the intricacies involved when attempting to determine the age and authenticity of a jewel.
There are tricks that a creative jeweller can use to marry antique and modern elements to produce convincing looking ‘antiques’. For example, a genuine setting can be replaced with one that is non-original. Or, the purpose of a jewel can be changed; an earring may be converted into a brooch or a brooch converted into a ring. The result is termed a ‘mixed marriage’, or less a flattering term ‘Franken-jewel’. Another point to consider when assessing the authenticity of a jewel is the identity of the gemstones. Are they original to the piece, or have they been swapped out with other gemstones, perhaps even modern ones that could be synthetic or treated? Another key consideration is any evidence of repairs that may result in genuine hallmarks being defaced or so illegible as to be useless when determining age/authenticity.
Buyers should expect some degree of puffery in the sellers advertising. But ultimately, it’s up to you to ascertain what is fact from fiction. To protect yourself, only buy jewellery from sellers who offer a money-back guarantee within a reasonable time frame if the item is not as described. Check out these examples of bejewelled rings that started life as something different.
The ring featured above was purchased online as a genuine antique and submitted to me for assessment.
At first sight, this ring appears to be antique, for several reasons. It contains serpent motifs typical of antique jewellery, and the metal is a pleasant light rosy colour that is so often seen in older rings. It has some nice looking hallmarks too, and shows the wear and tear that you would expect from a well-loved ring of this era, along with some additional marks from repairs and resizing. So far, good good. Next, out comes my Bradbury’s book of hallmarks. The hallmarks turn out to be legitimate, confirming that the ring is 15ct gold and antique, and was made in England, Birmingham. The date mark is too unclear to decipher, but the rest looks convincing enough. Looks ok right?
Look closer, much closer.
When acid tested, the centre setting is crafted from 18ct yellow gold; a different carat to the body. This indicates that the setting is non-original. But the most remarkable feature which screams Franken-ring is the large red coloured stone which tests as a modern ruby/glass composite worth a few dollars per carat. Unfortunately, whatever happened to the original centre stone, we will never know. As the original ring has been modified, the value drops. The same concept applies to Franken-watches such as Rolex or Breitling that have had aftermarket components added to them.
The next ring is another beautiful example of a mixed marriage that contains three different elements and three different types of gold from different era’s. The 9ct rose gold foil backed garnet cluster is antique and was converted from a brooch, as evidenced by the solder remnants to the back. Set to the centre of the cluster is a modern 9ct yellow gold setting containing a modern cushion cut pretty pink tourmaline. Finally, a 14ct rose gold band and underrail was soldered to the underside of the cluster to complete the marriage.
At first glance, the last example also looks like it could be antique. It contains traditional vitreous enamelling to the setting and shoulders, has some natural seed pearls and a rather large blue stone which could be paste. However, the inside of the band has a modern ‘14K’ stamp, which indicates a more recent incarnation, and the ring has a combination of cast and handmade techniques. Gemmological tests reveal the centre gemstone to be a synthetic colour change spinel, which is a very modern invention. This gem changes colour from blue in daylight equivalent light to red in incandescent light in an attempt to mimic alexandrite. In this particular case, this piece appears to be a marriage of antique and modern elements but has been altered so much that the original age is unidentifiable.
If you have bought an item of jewellery described as antique make sure you have it authenticated and valued by contacting Megan Austin Valuations. (07) 3210 1975.
Genuine Antique or Modern Replica: Tips for jewellery buyers
How can you ensure you are buying a genuine original antique and not a replica? Many traditional antique styles are reproduced today, and some are so cleverly executed they could outwit even the most savvy of buyers. Megan Austin discusses the intricacies involved when attempting to separate an antique from a replica.
How can you ensure you are buying a genuine original antique and not a replica? Many traditional antique styles are reproduced today, and some are so cleverly executed they could outwit even the most savvy of buyers. Megan Austin discusses the intricacies involved when attempting to separate an antique from a replica.
There are many factors to consider when separating a genuine antique from a replica. Unless the item is blessed with a set of good, crisp hallmarks and has no obvious signs of alteration we must rely on other clues. These include design, type of metal and carat, construction technique, quality of craftsmanship, findings, setting style, finishes, gemstone type, cutting style, and treatments.
A seller should always represent an item of jewellery accurately by stating if it’s antique, vintage, modern or a mixed marriage. Certainly, it’s preferable to buy from a trusted seller or one who offers a reasonable return period. This is trickier if you’re buying online but then if the item is not as described when you receive it, you are technically entitled to a full refund. Consumer friendly payment options such as Paypal will investigate any claims with the seller on your behalf. Otherwise, the ACCC or Office of Fair Trading should help you out in the event of any difficulties in this regard. Some sellers are unaware of the true age of the item and so I would also advise that you do your research and ask lots of questions pre-sale.
Below are some pairs of rings that might look similar in style, but only one is a genuine antique. Can you guess which one?
Crisp hallmarks found on the inside of the ring shank on the left indicate the name of the maker (S.H&C), Country (England), Town (Birmingham), the carat stamp (18ct) and a date letter that indicates the year of manufacture, which in this case is 1919, making this ring a genuine antique. Hallmarks aside, other clues that indicate this ring is an antique include the style of design, it’s high quality handmade execution and setting style that features beautifully finished and very fine claw tips. The turquoise gemstones are not exactly matched in terms of cut and shape and show some signs of discolouration that is consistent with age.
The ring on the right is of similar ‘London bridge’ style. However, this item has been manufactured using the casting technique, which is often used in modern mass production. Another red flag is the perfectly even coloured blue of the turquoise gemstones, which appear to be stabilised (a modern treatment) and perfectly symmetrical, and that lack the minor cutting inconsistencies of the first ring. Fortunately, this ring also contains hallmarks. These allow us to deduce the maker (S&K), Country (England) and Town (London), the purity as 9ct carat gold and the 1993 date letter, making this ring late 20th century, not antique. That is a whopping age difference of 74 years between the two rings.
An inexperienced buyer may not pick up these differences.
We have a similar dilemma with the two rings pictured below. Both rings have a similar style of band that contain one or more hammer set gemstones, however each ring has a distinct set of hallmarks.
The ring on the left has a hallmark which indicates it was made by E.V in England (Birmingham) in 1889 and is 18ct gold, so it’s late Victorian in age. The ring on the right has hallmarks that tell us it was made by J.H.W. in England (Birmingham) in 1928 and is 18ct rose gold. So, technically the first ring is antique, and the second is considered vintage and should be sold as such.
Have a guess about the age of these rings? Antique or modern reproduction?
Genuine Antique
This is a genuine antique early Victorian 22ct yellow gold rhodolite garnet ring, made in England in 1847. It contains a rhodolite garnet which has suffered some small chips and has some surface pits and cracks, consistent with the age of the ring. The ring is handmade and the setting contains multiple claw tips that are quite finely shaped to hold the centre gem.
Vintage Replica
This is a modern vintage replica of an antique ‘basket’ ring. It contains modern round brilliant cut synthetic rubies, brilliant cut diamonds and onyx. It is of budget cast construction that potentially could have been made in the hundreds, and is let down by poor finish.
Mixed Marriage
This is a mixed marriage of antique and modern. The antique silver topped setting contains a garnet surrounded by old cut diamonds and the band has been later added. The setting may have originally been a brooch.
If you are in doubt about the age and origin of your latest purchase, contact Megan Austin Valuations to obtain a professional opinion.
(07) 3210 1975 or email info@meganaustinvaluations.com.au
Pink Diamond Online Jewellery Auction Fail - Reasons to use a Registered Valuer
Imagine investing your hard-earned cash in a rare pink diamond for your Superfund, only to discover that it’s worth 2.5% of its supposed value. Megan Austin explains the benefits of having your online purchase checked by a National Council Of Jewellery Valuers (NCJV) registered valuer.
Imagine investing your hard-earned cash in a rare pink diamond for your Superfund, only to discover that it’s worth 2.5% of its supposed value. Megan Austin explains the benefits of having your online purchase checked by a National Council Of Jewellery Valuers (NCJV) registered valuer.
My client bought a cushion cut 0.73ct Fancy Brownish Purple-Pink diamond (Photo 1) through an online auction with supporting paperwork that seemed to tick all the boxes. One of these documents was a GIA report (see below Photo 2), dated the 1st of February 2017. Usually, if you are offered a GIA report with a purchase, you would be on solid ground. However, in this case, and unbeknownst to the buyer, the diamond was laser drilled and fracture filled sometime after the GIA report was created, drastically reducing the value of the diamond.
The second document (see below Photo 3) supplied by the auction house was a formal valuation for $95,000 that was completed by a non-registered, non-gemmologist valuer – who despite his lack of qualifications operates a Fine Jewellery Valuation and Consultancy service – stating that the diamond was worth ten times what she paid for it. These two documents together provided the basis upon which my client decided to bid for the diamond in the online auction, which she won.
Photo 1
photo 2 - original gia report
photo 3 - auction valuation
In a further twist to the tale, my client says she contacted a diamond broker in Queensland, and after examining the diamond with a loupe he instructed her merely to put it in her safe until she retired. If my client had followed the broker’s instructions, she would’ve not only been paying excessive premiums for decades, but she also would have reaped absolutely no return with potentially no recourse for recovery of her funds.
Despite having the documents provided by the auction house and the subsequent discussion with the diamond industry so-called 'expert', some red flags had been raised and the buyer decided to make an appointment with me to get another opinion of the stone. After examining the gem with a loupe and subsequent testing by Spectra Gemmological Laboratory on the Gold Coast, the report confirmed that the diamond had been laser drilled and fracture filled. Not only this but it was worth about a quarter of the purchase price paid.
What is laser drilling and fracture filling? Laser drilling is a technique whereby a channel is burnt from the surface of a diamond to meet with an inclusion (generally black) with a laser. The channel is used as a conduit to allow for chemical treatment of the inclusion, usually changing its appearance from black to white. Fracture filling is a technique involving the occupation of part or whole of the diamond with a substance, e.g. glass with the purpose of making the fracture less visible.
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Many may think that a valuation higher than the purchase price indicates a bargain; however, I urge consumers to beware of online purchases that come with an inflated valuation certificate. The fact is this auction house deliberately uses overstated or incorrect valuations from non-registered valuers as a sales tool; they’re designed to convince customers that they’ve got a great deal when, in fact, they are potentially overpaying. Worse, this inflated figure also becomes the figure upon which years of insurance premiums are paid.
The sad truth is that anyone can claim to be a valuer and this is not illegal; however, there are industry bodies that specialise in jewellery valuation, and it’s up to the client to choose a suitably-qualified professional. Always select a valuer who is registered with the National Council of Jewellery Valuers as they must undertake many years of formal training in gemmology and other specialist areas to become registered and then commit to ongoing education for the duration of their registered status to remain up-to-date with industry changes.
Even though non-NCJV registered valuers are not answerable to the NCJV they are still expected to comply with Australian Consumer Law (ACL) which makes it illegal for a business to engage in misleading or deceptive conduct, by failing to disclose that gemstones have been treated and are not natural, even if they didn’t intend to mislead or deceive.
Furthermore, sellers in the jewellery industry also have a responsibility to comply with ACL which states that a customer is entitled to a refund if an item is significantly different from the description. If a retailer uses a valuation misleadingly or deceptively, irrespective of whether he/she knew it was misleading then the retailer will have contravened the Act. In addition, if the valuer knows the retailer is using the valuations misleadingly and deceptively and does nothing to prevent that misuse, then the valuer may also contravene the Act as a person knowingly concerned in the contravention.
Louise Sylvan, a former Deputy Chair for the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission says “The problem for consumers is that very few consumers have the expertise to be able to determine if the gemstones they are being sold are as authentic as is claimed, and in particular, if the price they are being quoted is a genuine bargain. In short, in most cases, consumers are relying on the honesty and reputation of the jeweller”.
Even if a diamond comes with a diamond certificate from a reputable diamond grading laboratory, ensure you use a registered valuer to verify it. Also, even though the vendor may issue you with an ‘in-house’ valuation certificate, a ‘Certificate of Authenticity’ or if it has a reputable laboratory grading report – as in this case – it’s still important to have the item checked over by a professional and valued for replacement in the Australian marketplace.
Fortunately, this story has a very happy ending as my client managed to recover her funds from the Auction house, and additionally was reimbursed the cost of the laboratory report and my valuation.
To obtain a valuation on your purchase, call today on (07) 3210 1975 and let qualified experts help you.